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DIAMOND® Veneer Finish
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The perfect choice for light commercial and residential construction.DIAMOND® Veneer Finish is designed for use with economical, abrasion-resistant walls and ceilings. , including single-family dwellings, high-rise buildings, and garden apartments
DIAMOND Veneer Finish is a white finish formulated for hand application over IMPERIAL® Gypsum Base or as a finish of a two-coat system over a sanded gypsum basecoat, IMPERIAL Veneer Basecoat, or DIAMOND Veneer Basecoat.
The finish is unaggregated, allowing for a smooth or skip-trowel finish. It can also be job-aggregated with clean silica sand to create Spanish, swirl, float, and other texture types. It is harder than regular gauging and lime putty finishes and delivers a more durable wall.
The finish goes on easily, drying in as little as 24 hours under normal environmental conditions, allowing for next day decoration. The DIAMOND Veneer Finish's working properties allows work to be halted anywhere, and is easily joinable at any point in the room. Its high coverage (as much as 6,000 sq. ft. per ton) saves time and money.
The finish is recommended for interior wall and ceiling surfaces as well as over properly prepared monolithic concrete. It provides a strong, hard surface that resists abrasion and surface cracking, and can be job-sanded for use in electric cable heat systems.
Walls and ceiling systems completed with DIAMOND Veneer Finish offer up to four hour fire rating.
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| USG® Gypsum Plaster Finish Coat Plasters Architectural Spec - 092100 [MSW8] | 96 KB |
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| DIAMOND® Veneer Finish Submittal Sheet - P777 [PDF] | 198 KB |
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| DIAMOND® and IMPERIAL® Finish Plasters Application Tips - P838 [PDF] | 71 KB |
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| Title | Size | Add to Submittal |
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| Plaster Systems Brochure - SA920 [PDF] | 4,356 KB |
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General
Q: What is the difference between IMPERIAL® Brand Finish Plaster and DIAMOND® Interior Finish Plaster?
A: IMPERIAL® Brand Finish Plaster is the stronger and more abrasion resistant. DIAMOND Interior Finish Plaster is designed for ease of use and slightly improved abrasion resistance when compared to gypsum panels.
Q: Can RED TOP® Brand Finish Plaster be applied over Veneer Basecoats?
A: Yes. Mill-mixed RED TOP® Brand Finish Plaster or other jobsite lime/gauging plasters can be applied over Veneer Basecoats.
Q: Can plaster be used for grouting doorframes?
A: Yes, but only on open throat doorframes, per door manufactures requirements. RED TOP ® Gypsum Plaster mixed with sand (1 part Red Top Gypsum/ 2 parts sand per bag recommendation) is most commonly used for full grouts. See Page 281 Gypsum Construction Handbook for full details.
Q: What is the only base coat plaster that can be used as the scratch and brown coat for a conventional 3-coat application over wide-flange (1 inch or greater) framing?
A: RED TOP® STRUCTOBASE gypsum basecoat plaster.
Q: Can conventional 3-coat plaster be used with drywall grid?
A: Yes. If the main tees, cross tees and hanger wires are properly sized and spaced to carry the plaster load and only RED TOP® STRUCTOBASE gypsum basecoat plaster is used for the scratch and brown coats.
Q: What is the best way of repairing an old wood lath plaster application?
A: Remove the old plaster down to the wood lath, staple metal over the existing lath and apply RED TOP® sanded conventional basecoat over the metal lath. Any USG finish plaster can be applied over the basecoat plaster for a final coat.
Q: What paints are recommended for decorating veneer plaster?
A: SHEETROCK® Brand Wallcovering Primer (or equivalent) should be used to prime a veneer plaster surface. Lime containing veneer plasters (such as DIAMOND® Interior Finish) should be treated with an alkaline resistant paint (pH greater than 12).
Q: When can a Conventional Plaster System be painted?
A: A Conventional Plaster system can be painted after it is completely dry.
Distribution and Handling
Q: Can I store USG Decorative Interior Finishing System (DIFS) products outdoors?
A: As with all gypsum products, DIFS products must be protected from exposure to excessive or continuous moisture and the elements before, during and after installation. Storing outdoors uncovered is not recommended.
Q: What is the shelf life of plaster?
A: Plaster can be stored 3-6 months if it is stored in a cool, dry place, protected from extreme heat and cold, direct sunlight and at a temperature above 45 °F (7 °C).
Installation
Q: How long should DIFS dry before applying sealer?
A: Sealer can only be applied after the surfaced has dried (usually about 24 hours depending on the humidity and temperature at the job site).
Q: Does it matter if some of the colorant is spilled or splashed out during mixing?
A: Yes. Any loss of the colorant causes color variation in the finished material.
Q: What substrates can DIFS be applied over?
A: Properly prepared drywall surfaces, basecoat plaster, and existing surfaces that have been identified as sound and bondable.
Q: What if the sealer starts to drip?
A: Immediately wipe off any drips using a soft, absorbent lint-free cloth.
Q: What steps are taken before applying DIFS over existing sound, clean, bondable, monolithic substrate?
A: Before applying the plaster to any substrate it must be identified as clean and bondable. Plaster bonder-clear is then applied to the entire surface. Once the plaster bonder is dry to the touch, apply the colored finish. When that is dry, seal with a Low-luster or semi Gloss sealer.
Q: How is the DIFS applied?
A: It is recommended that the sealer be applied using low-pressure airless spray equipment.
Q: How should the Color Trend colorant and water be mixed?
A: Mix Color Trend and water together in a bucket using a heavy-duty 450-RPM drill with a drywall blade-type joint compound paddle. Turn the drill on and off several times to evenly disperse the colorant through the water and to prevent splashing.
Q: What is the recommended spacing of control joints for a plaster system?
A: Control joints are not to exceed 30 feet for walls and ceilings. The spacing for a ceiling with perimeter relief is not to exceed 50 feet.
Q: When can veneer plaster be painted?
A: Veneer plaster can be painted when it is completely dry. The best way to determine if the plaster is dry is by taping a piece of 12" by 12" plastic to the surface. If any moisture remains on the plastic after 24 hours then the plaster is not completely dry.
Q: What is the recommended stud spacing for installing conventional plaster?
A: Do not exceed 16 inches on center.
Q: Can USG Veneer Plaster be applied directly over CMU?
A: The CMU must cure for at least 45 to 60 days prior to the plaster application. Refer to USG system folder SA920 for specific application directions.
Q: Can veneer plaster be applied to sun faded IMPERIAL® Brand Gypsum Base?
A: No. An alum spray must be applied prior to application.
Performance
Q: What is the best way to prevent color variation?
A: Make sure that the area you are plastering is free of direct airflow to prevent against dry-out and that the minimum thickness of plaster applied is 1/8 of an inch.
Q: How many different textures can be achieved?
A: There are many textures available however semi-smooth, medium and heavy are standard examples.
Q: What are the deflection design criteria for installing plaster systems?
A: When installing a veneer plaster system it should be designed at deflection L/240 and L/360 for a Conventional Plaster system.
Technical
Q: Why must a color be picked that is darker than the actual color wanted?
A: Selecting a color darker than the desired result is to compensate for the color change that occurs when the plaster is applied and dries.
Q: What components make up DIFS?
A: Wall Covering Primer, Plaster Bonder-clear, any USG veneer plaster, Colortrend colorants, and a choice of either Semi-Gloss or Low Luster Sealer.
Q: Why are there black, green or reddish-brown spots on the surface of the finished piece?
A: The piece was not dried correctly.
Q: Why did the plaster slurry set before it was sufficiently soaked and completely mixed?
A: Determine if the plaster became contaminated after its removal from bag. First mix plaster from the storage bin in one mix. Then, under identical conditions, use plaster directly form the bag for a second mix. Any lumps of setup plaster in bags or storage bin should be removed. If both mixes set too fast and do not appear contaminated, the plaster may be at fault or either of the two following causes may be present: 1) Dirty mixing equipment or 2) Impurities in mixing water.
Q: Why was air trapped on the surface of the finished pieces?
A: The plaster was improperly soaked or mixed. Start with a[!]good quality plaster. Sift plaster into the water at one time. Let the plaster soak completely until all particles are wetted. Thoroughly mix with a mechanical mixer having the propeller adjusted so air is not whipped into the mix. Mixer should be set at a high speed (approx. 1,750 rpm). Air entrainment is a widespread problem and should be constantly guarded against. Always add plaster to water, never the reverse.
Q: Why won´t paint stick or blisters/peels off of the surface of the finished piece?
A: The plaster was not dried correctly.
Q: What is this white powder on the face of the finished piece?
A: The piece was not dried correctly.
Q: Why do the finished pieces appear white and chalky even though I used a colored plaster?
A: The pieces might be calcined (burnt) because of extremely high drying temperatures. Regulate temperature of dryer at about 120ºF and remove pieces as soon as they are dry.
Q: Why is the finished piece rough and feels like sandpaper?
A: Large particles in plaster slurry settle out against the face of the mold. Mix until the plaster "creams". Slurry is then thick enough to prevent settling.
Q: Why are there large/hairline cracks on the finished pieces?
A: The pieces were probably not handled properly. Wet pieces have about half the strength of a dried piece making them vulnerable to abuse.
| Product Name |
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| IMPERIAL® Gypsum Base |
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